U.S. to ban use of Kaspersky software in federal agencies amid concerns of Russian espionage

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The U.S. government on Wednesday plans to ban the use of a Russian brand of security software by federal agencies amid concerns the company has ties to state-sponsored cyberespionage activities, according to U.S. officials.

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Acting Homeland Security Secretary Elaine Duke will order that Kaspersky Lab software be barred from federal government networks while giving agencies a timeline to get rid of it, according to several officials familiar with the plan who were not authorized to speak publicly about it. Duke ordered the scrub on the grounds that the company has connections to the Russian government and its software poses a security risk.

The directive comes months after the federal General Services Administration, the agency in charge of government purchasing, removed Kaspersky from its list of approved vendors. In doing so, GSA suggested a vulnerability exists in Kaspersky that could give the Kremlin backdoor access to the systems the company protects.

In a statement to The Washington Post on Wednesday, the company said: “Kaspersky Lab doesn’t have inappropriate ties with any government, which is why no credible evidence has been presented publicly by anyone or any organization to back up the false allegations made against the company. The only conclusion seems to be that Kaspersky Lab, a private company, is caught in the middle of a geopolitical fight, and it’s being treated unfairly even though the company has never helped, nor will help, any government in the world with its cyberespionage or offensive cyber efforts.

“Kaspersky Lab has always acknowledged that it provides appropriate products and services to governments around the world to protect those organizations from cyberthreats, but it does not have unethical ties or affiliations with any government, including Russia,” the firm said.

The directive comes in the wake of an unprecedented Russian operation to interfere in the U.S. presidential election that saw Russian spy services hack into the Democratic National Committee and the networks of other political organizations and release damaging information.

At least a half-dozen federal agencies run Kaspersky on their networks, the U.S. officials said, although there may be other networks where an agency’s chief information security officer — the official ultimately responsible for systems security — might not be aware it is being used.

The U.S. intelligence community has long assessed that Kaspersky has ties to the Russian government, according to officials, who spoke on condition of anonymity to discuss internal deliberations. Its founder, Eugene Kaspersky, graduated from a KGB-supported cryptography school and had worked in Russian military intelligence.

In recent months concern has mounted inside the government about the potential for Kaspersky software to be used to gather information for the Russian secret services, officials said.

Richard Ledgett, former National Security Agency Deputy Director, hailed the move. Speaking on the sidelines of the Billington cybersecurity summit in Washington Wednesday, he noted that by Kaspersky, like other Russian companies, is “bound to comply with the directive of Russian state security services, by law, to share with them information from their servers.”

Concerns about Kaspersky software had been brewing for years, according to one former official who told The Post that some congressional staffers were warned by federal law enforcement officials as early as November 2015 not to meet with employees from Kaspersky over concerns of electronic surveillance.

When GSA announced its July decision, it underscored its mission was to “ensure the integrity and security of U.S. government systems and networks” and that Kaspersky was delisted “after review and careful consideration.” The action removed the company from the list of products approved for purchase on federal systems and at discounted prices for state governments.

The directive will also put pressure on state and local governments that use Kaspersky’s products. Many had been left to speculate about the risks of sticking with the company or abandoning taxpayer-funded contracts, sometimes at great cost. In July, The Post found several state or local agencies that used Kaspersky’s antivirus or security software had purchased or supported the software within the last two years.

Spam control experiment

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Controlling Spam MailTired of spam email? Try this simple technique to reduce your spam.

My INBOX receives over 400 emails a day. Many of these emails are from websites I have either ordered something from,  downloaded something or are just junk mail. The number of emails almost doubles during the weekend and at nite. Now, its not difficult to DELETE these unwanted emails. But it does take some time to do so and I sometimes delete by mistake a good email that I need (Murphy’s law at work!). To be honest I actually find something interesting in those “junk” emails every now and than.

The technique:

About 3 weeks ago, I decided to try an experiment to reduce the spam emails I receive and save me some valuable time. What I came up with is so simple that I was skeptical if it would actually work. What did I do? I scrolled down on every “spam” email and hit the UNSUBSCRIBE button.

How to UnSubscribe:

Not every email has an “unsubscribe” and those are truly spam and need to be deleted. What i found over the last 3 week was interesting. First, not every web site handles the unsubscribe the same way. Most bring you to a web site where you have to OPT OUT of the list you are subscribed. These require you to be careful and read the screen and make sure you select UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM ALL and not just the boxes with a check in it. Experimenting, I began first de-selecting all boxes and unsubscribing THAN reloading the page (clicking on the link again from the email) and hitting UNSUBSCRIBE FROM ALL – basically doing it twice. After 3 weeks, the double method seemed to work best in removing you from the list. Other sites have you type in your email (yes I thought this is how they confirm you are real, but this was an experiment remember) and again hit unsubscribe. Still other’s required you to CHECK OFF not UNCHECK the lists you no longer want. The best ones send you to a web page that states “you are unsubscribed”.

Finding the Un-subscribe button:

No one wants you off their list as you are a potential customer. So they don’t make it easy. The BETTER more reputable sites have a clear button to click. The less reputable sites don’t have a button but text you read and click. This text does not always show a link with your mouse so you have to click around – sneaky. This text may state “to remove yourself…”, “if you no longer wish to..” or my favorite “you requested these emails if you no longer want them” yes that’s right nothing else after that – even sneakier.

Finally some emails require you to reply with UNSUBSCRIBE in the email – again experimenting, i put unsubscribe in the subject and the body. What i found was that doing both, placing the unsubscribe in the subject and body of the email works best.

What happened after 3 weeks of doing this?

You may think this was a lengthy process and too time consuming – but fear not! It takes less than 8 seconds per email – yes I timed it! So for 3 weeks I diligently removed myself from every email I did not want.

First, some sites state you will be removed in 10 days (sears, homedepot etc..) and some said it will take a few days to process your request –  so be patient hence why I gave this 3 weeks. Some emails continued to come in despite my efforts to unsubscribe. I followed my process may times on each email. Interestingly, some continued to send emails but WITHOUT the UNSUNSCRIBE button – even sneakier – bastards! So i began making the unsubscribe links my favorites and continued to remove myself from the emails. Others immediately send me 2-3 emails right after unsubscribing without the button – like parting shots in a war. But I remained vigilant and continued to remove myself from the lists.

The results were quite astonishing

3 weeks later, my inbox receives less than 200 emails  a day with most if not all being good emails – a 70% reduction! Now at nite, I find myself looking at my phone only to find NO emails for me to delete! Saturday what was over 200 spam emails is now less than 20.

so this process works, costs nothing but some time and has greatly reduced junk mail. As a side benefit, since a lot of junk mail has been eliminated, the incidences of viruses also has gone down.

So if you want less spam and some virus protection, follow these steps – it worked for me!

Anthony Pennacchio
President

How to Cancel or Delete a Stuck Print Job in Windows

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How to Cancel or Delete a Stuck Print Job in Windows

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Sometimes, documents you’re printing get stuck in the printer’s queue, preventing further documents from being printed. Here’s how to fix it when that happens.

Whether you’re using a local or shared network printer, sometimes printing doesn’t go quite right. If you’ve tried troubleshooting obvious printer problems—paper jams, no paper, low ink or toner, or simply restarting the printer—it’s time to turn your attention toward the print queue. Often, simply clearing and restarting the print spooler—the software that prepares and manages printing documents—can fix the problem. If that fails, you may need to cancel one or more documents in your print queue and see if that gets things going again.

This should work in Windows Vista, 7, 8, and 10.

Clear and Restart the Print Spooler

Clearing and restarting the print spooler should be your first step when trying to fix stuck print jobs because it won’t actually cancel any of your currently printing documents. Instead, it restarts things and proceeds as if all those documents had just been sent to the printer for the first time.

To do this, you’ll stop the Print Spooler service, delete the temporary cache Windows uses to spool print jobs, and then start the service again. We’re going to show you two ways to do this. First, we’ll look at how to do it manually, and then we’ll look at how to create a batch script so that you can do it any time you want with just a click.

 Clear and Restart the Print Spooler Manually

To clear and restart the print spooler manually, you’ll first need to stop the Print Spooler service. Click Start, type “services,” and then click the Services app.

In the right-hand pane of the Services window, find and double-click the “Print Spooler” service to open its properties window.

In the properties window, on the “General” tab, click the “Stop” button. You’ll be restarting the service a bit later, so go ahead and leave this properties window open for now.

Fire up File Explorer and browse to the following location—or just copy and paste this text into your File Explorer address bar and hit Enter:

%windir%\System32\spool\PRINTERS

You’ll likely be asked to provide permission to access this folder. Go ahead and accept.

Delete the contents of the entire folder by pressing Ctrl+A and then the Delete key.

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Now, return to that open properties window in the Services app and click “Start” to restart the Print Spooler service. Click “OK” to close the properties window and you can also go ahead and exit the Services app.

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As soon as you restart the Print Spooler service, all the documents in your queue are immediately respooled and sent to the printer. If all goes well, they should start printing again right away.

Clear and Restart the Print Spooler with a Batch File

 If clearing your print queue by restarting the Print Spooler service is something you think you’ll be doing more than once—or you’d just rather not go through the trouble of using the Services app—you can also create a simple batch file to do the job.

Fire up Notepad or your preferred text editor. Copy and paste the following text as separate lines into the blank document:

net stop spooler
del /Q /F /S "%windir%\System32\spool\PRINTERS\*.*"
net start spooler

Next, you’ll save your document as a .bat file. Open the “File” menu and click the “Save As” command. In the “Save As” window, browse to the location you want to save the file. On the “Save as type” drop-down menu, choose the “All files (*.*)” entry. Name your file whatever you like, but include “.bat” at the end. Click “Save” when you’re done.

You can now double-click that batch file to clear the print spooler whenever you want. Better yet, create a shortcut to the batch file and then place that shortcut where it makes the most sense to you—desktop, Start menu, or taskbar—and you’ll have one-click access to clear and restart the print spooler whenever you want.

Restart or Cancel Some or All of Your Printing Documents

If clearing and restarting the print spooler didn’t do the trick, the next step you’ll want to take is to see if you can identify—and cancel—whatever document is stuck. Sometimes, clearing a single stuck document will get your printer going again and any other print jobs in the queue can finish printing normally. Other times, you might have to cancel all the currently printing documents and then try printing them again.

Click Start, type “devices,” and then click the “Devices and Printers” Control Panel app.

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In the Devices and Printers window, right-click the printer you’re having trouble with and then click the “See what’s printing” command to open the print queue.

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The print queue window shows the print jobs currently awaiting printing. If a single document is causing the problem and you have more than one document in the queue, it’s usually the earliest document that’s stuck. Click the header for the “Submitted” column so that the documents are arranged in the order they were submitted, with the earliest at the top. Note that in our example, we arranged the columns so they would fit in our screenshot better, so your “Submitted” column may be further to the right.

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Right-click the earliest print job and then select “Restart” from the context menu.

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If your printer cranks up and starts printing after restarting the document, you’re good to go. Otherwise, you’ll need to try canceling the document. Right-click the document again and select the “Cancel” command.

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Click “Yes” to confirm that you want to cancel the document.

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If the cancellation was successful, the document should disappear from the print queue and the printer will start printing the next document in line. If the document didn’t get canceled at all—or if the document did get canceled but printing is still not happening—you’ll need to try canceling all the documents in the queue. Click the “Printer” menu and then choose the “Cancel all documents” command.

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All the documents in the queue should disappear and you can try printing a new document to see if it works.


If restarting the print spooler and clearing documents from the print queue didn’t fix your printing problem—and your printer was working successfully previously—then you’ll likely need to turn your attention toward things like updating or reinstalling your printer drivers or moving on to whatever diagnostics are provided by the manufacturer of your printer. But hopefully, these steps have helped fix your stuck print job before going that far.

Windows 10 Paging file error on boot up

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Error:

Windows created a temporary paging file on your computer because of a problem that
occured with your paging file configuration when you started your computer. The total paging
file size for all disk drives may be somewhat larger than the size you specified

If you get errors that Windows cannot create a paging file, you can do the following:

  1. Try repairing the drive by checking fro errors and defraging
  2. Delete the [pagefile.sys] and reboot
  3. Modify the registry to verify the paging file has a location

Deleting Paging File

  1. Log in under a local Administrator account. (Do this after each restart in these instructions as well.)
  2. If it’s not already open, open the virtual memory settings by rich-clicking on Computer, → PropertiesAdvanced System Settings → click the Advanced tab → Under Performance, click Settings, go to Advanced tab, finally under Virtual Memory section click the Change button.
  3. Uncheck the Autmatically manage paging file size for all drives checkbox.
  4. Set a “Custom size” for the paging file on the C drive: 0MB initial, 0MB maximum.
  5. Click OK, close all dialog boxes, and restart your computer.
  6. After logging in again, delete the file C:\pagefile.sys
    1. To do this, you may need to change your folder settings so you can see it first. Open a window of your C: drive and click Organize at the top, then Folder and Search Options
    2. Click the View tab, and make sure Show hidden files, folders and drives is turned on, and that Hide protected system files is not checked.
    3. Click OK and go back to your C: drive, find pagefile.sys and delete it.
  7. Now go back to the virtual memory settings (see step 2 above) and set the paging file for the C: drive to System managed size, and then make sure the Automatically manage paging file size for all drives checkbox is checked.
  8. Click OK, close all dialog boxes, and restart your computer.

Registry Change

HKLM\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management/PagingFiles

Resolving HDMI Sound Issues

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Resolving HDMI Sound Issues

  • Right-click the Volume icon by the time in the lower-right corner.
  • Click Playback Devices.
    The Sound window opens.
  • On the Playback tab, click the following audio output device that is listed:
    • Digital Output Device (HDMI)
      Figure : Digital Output Device (HDMI) selection

      Image of Digital Output Device (HDMI) selection

    • Realtek HDMI Output
      Figure : Realtek HDMI Output selection

      Realtek HDMI Output selection

    • NVIDIA HDMI Output
      Figure : NVIDIA HDMI Output selection

      NVIDIA HDMI Output selection

    • ATI HDMI Output
      Figure : ATI HDMI Output selection

      ATI HDMI Output selection

  • Click Set Default.
  • Click Apply.
    • If you used Digital Output Device (HDMI), click OK to close the window. This completes the steps to activate HDMI sound.
    • If you used Realtek HDMI Output, continue with Step 6.
  • Double-click Realtek HDMI Output.
    The Realtek Digital Output Properties window opens.
  • Click the Supported Formats tab.
  • Place a check in the 48.0 KHz check box, and make sure that there are no checks in the Dolby Digital check box and all other check boxes.
    Figure : Supported Formats settings in the Realtek Digital Output Properties window

    Supported Formats settings in the Realtek Digital Output Properties window

      note:
    For most TVs to play back audio, the sample rate must be 48.0 KHz.